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Colorado Springs and
Cripple Creek District Railway
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Last updated: 15.03.2010 16:14
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The Cripple Creek Times New Year
1903
(page 34-35)
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A WOMAN'S IMPRESSIONS OF A SHORT LINE TRIP
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"All
Aboard!" - that old familiar call, that always sets
one's wits to hurrying - and we were off for our first
trip over the Short Line. The day was bright as gold - one
of those incomparable early June days that can be matched
nowhere outside of Colorado.
There
was the usual hurry and scurry, for there are always the
belated ones on any train, and presently the engine began
breathing and puffing for the mighty spurt she was about
to make around Pike's peak to the gold region.
My
place was one of much envy, for it had fallen to my lot to
ride in the cab beside the engineer. The engine was a
beauty of burnished brass and steel, and she fairly
exhilarated with life and energy. In a few minutes we were
out of town, away from the belching mills and smelters,
throwing miles behind us in the struggle with space.
The
deep, guttural puffs of the engine soon subsided to a
smooth, even breathing like the purring of a well-fed
tigress. We were gliding over the tracks without a jostle
of friction. It was like being on the back of some huge
monster that crept, with velvety tread, up the mountains,
as if climbing were the merest fun.
The
way in which the engine took the steep grades and the
grace with which we rounded the curves were a revelation.
The one effort seemed to be to run ahead far enough to
just keep from butting into the rocks that loomed before
us, and at the same time to avoid running straight down
the gorges that yawned below us.
A
few miles made no impression on the peaks about us - they
were there, exactly as far off, and of the same size. More
miles still made no difference. Soon we were making
acquaintance among the clouds, and the peaks looked
frostily on, and, as we climbed, the peaks also climbed -
there was no getting away from them now.
Up,
way up, we could see the snow lying in great white patches
on the shaded sides of the peaks; surely here were all
seasons in a day, for winter peeped surlily out of the
shadows and relented not a whit at the advances that
summer was graciously making.
Unlike
other mountain roads that creep along the valleys and
gorges of the natural water-ways that nature has dug
between the mountains, the Short Line hugs close to the
crests of the mountains, and it is here that its
distinctive characteristic lies.
You
are away up, thousands of feet above the surrounding
country, and the plains east and south of you stretch on
in hazy indefiniteness, miles and miles of drab-colored
monotony. Sometimes the plains country takes the
appearance of a vast sea, and then again at other times,
when the atmosphere is white and tremulous with quivering
heat, it is no trick of the imagination to liken it to a
desert, with Colorado Springs, Pueblo and the smaller
towns that can be seen from the highest points as small
oases of verdure.
The
near-by scenery compares with nothing that one can
remember having seen before. It is even unlike other
mountain scenery. Usually one has to stare blankly upward
at the mountains, and a few hundred feet tower mightily
above man's stature.
But
here we are on a parallel with the heights - as one might
say - and we are darting from peak to peak, and all below
us are dark, forbidding looking gorges and canons. Here
everything is vast and overpowering.
The
mountains are all about one - great monuments of silence
that rest on the very foundations of the earth.
Involuntarily a shade of sadness passes over one as we are
reminded of our fleeting insignificance.
"What
is this all about?" the mountains seem to say,
scornfully; here to-day and to-morrow a memory with last
summer's rose leaves, and yet man conquered the rude
hills, and hewed a pathway across them that will endure as
long as the hills themselves.
At
one of the most beautiful places of the trip the train
stopped for several minutes. Some one has aptly called the
place Point Sublime. Many of the passengers alighted to
get a better view. Sublime it surely was - a sheer,
unbroken declivity of pinkish red granite, fully a half a
mile in height, the lower part covered with the tender
green of the aspen, and higher up came the darker verdure
of the pines and cedars, and here and there was a
flowering cherry or a haw bush, and exquisitely blended
with all was the russet browns and deep reds of the
granite crags that jutted above the verdure.
Was
there ever a picture painted half so beautiful? - and yet
all that had eyes could possess it. It was ours for the
mere looking. The view from here makes one's heart swell
with the joy of merely living and having eyes with which
to see the wondrous beauties of the world that God has
created for us.
All
about you are the spires and steeples of a vast city of
cathedrals, and at a wide break between two peaks one can
see the plains that stretch beyond, miles and miles of the
short grass country flattened out to meet the horizon, and
the imagination stops to wonder what lies beyond.
On
the north side of the rocks the snows on the shaded sides
made a picture of extreme contrast to the appearance of
the sunny slopes, where anemones and gentians bloomed in
rare perfection. The forgetmenots are also found in this
altitude.
Sometimes
the flowers grow apparently right out of the rocks. Seeds
lodge in granite crannies, and are housed and warmed there
to bloom, when other breezes come along to carry the seed
still farther. One of us had picked a bunch of flowers,
and among them was a particularly fine columbine, and just
as we were about to board the train along came an impudent
bee, which swooped down on the flower with the manner of a
cavalier, and after taking his tribute off he buzzed,
leaving us reflecting - but those reflections are another
story.
A
map of the Short Line must look very like a spiral twisted
into the shape of some grotesque Chinese character, for
there is scarcely a half mile of straight track along the
entire route. Certainly the man who planned possessed a
poet's imagination and the daring of an adventurer.
The
way circles, reverses and curves in a manner that is an
astonishing feat of engineering.
Just
as we were passing through one of the wildest portions of
the mountains suddenly there was a great commotion
throughout the train. For a moment we thought of outlaws
and train robbers, and then - well, there wasn't time for
another thought when we saw a deer - certainly one of the
most graceful animals in creation - standing momentarily
still, looking at the train in startled amazement, then
off it dashed, its antlers hewing a path through the green
thicket.
We
saw it as in a flash, then we didn't; but the trainmen
declare that during the unleafly season of the year it is
no uncommon sight to see deer along the routes, and they
may be frequently seen far down near the streams that
wedge their way between the mountains. But for us the
sight was decidedly a western one, and we appreciated it.
Soon
we had reached the highest point of the route, some 10,000
feet, and presently the engine ceased puffing and went
along silently as if tired out - but the fact was, the
grade being decidedly a downward one, the momentum of the
train almost kept it going for the rest of the trip.
The
mountains moulded themselves upon another and sort of
spread out. They are less awesome, and there is less of
contrast, or perhaps the mind has become so used to great
heights and fearful depths that only the most superlative
exaggerations could still make an impression.
We
were now on the other side of the range, and Cripple Creek
is only a matter of a few miles distant. Away off,
possibly - but it is better to be prudent and spare the
ridicule of a hazarded guess - away off lay a rim of
evenly serrated mountains - the Sangre de Cristo range - a
range of mountains that look as if they might be the end
of the earth.
Certainly
some such thought must have been in the minds of the first
pioneers, for here was a gigantic stockade which nature
had erected, and it seems as if there was no getting
beyond them - they stretch north and south as far as the
eye can see.
The
north side of each peak is a sheet of snowy whiteness, and
the south side is blue of various tints, and so they
alternate for two or three hundred miles. It is a sight
alone worth coming to see.
And
here, at last, down below in a great bowl-shaped valley,
lies Cripple Creek, a good sized checkerboard - that is
what the town looks like to us who are several hundred
feet above it.
But
Cripple Creek is another story, and a decidedly unique one
at that. Now, what would you not give to have your
enthusiasm whetted and exhilarated with all the keen
delights of vivid first impressions?
The
trip over the Short Line, at any time of the year, is a
bracer for your enthusiasm like nothing else, and, no
matter what may be the seasons down below, there are views
along that route that can be matched nowhere else.
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